Maintenance

Tyres and Tubes

It seems everyone you talk to is running different tyres and pressures, and everyone has an opinion on what works best. What they really should be saying though, is what works best for them.

A tyre that works well in dry sand might not do well over slippery wet roots. And the desert racer the dakar guys use might eat itself up in 100miles of road. You’ll need to talk to people who ride in your area, who tackle the same terrain as you do to know what works well.

0 PSI – mousses. Great for enduro, but get destroyed by long heat cycles so generally not suitable for extended road use.

3-8 PSI – tubliss. Has the ability to run super low pressures, 120PSI inner bladder and a low pressure outer combined, means you can plug punctures (be very careful to not nick the inner hi pressure bladder) Great idea, kinda expensive, gets mixed reviews.

10 – 15PSI – tubes. Cheap and cheerful. You can reduce the risk of pinch flats by going heavy duty or ultra heavy duty. Running 10 – 15 PSI you absolutely need a rimlock. If not using a rimlock I’d suggest staying in the 20 – 25PSI.

25 – 30PSI – road use. Lower pressures mean your tyre & tube deform more as the wheel rotates, greater deformation = greater friction = more heat in the tube and that heat buildup can cause a tube to come apart and fail.

If you’re going to cover extended road miles at decent speeds, then you need to run higher pressures.

 

Regardless of what tyre / tube / mousse combination you use, you will need to be able to change a tyre.

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